Right Track 1, Locomotive Kit Building Part 1
A review of this new programme from BRM/ Activity Media
This is the first in a series of videos/DVD's to be produced under the BRM banner that will illustrate constructional aspects of our hobby. This programme covers the construction of three 4mm loco kits to OO gauge, a brass 4F kit from Alan Gibson, and whitemetal kits of the GWR 61xx 2-6-2T from South Eastern Finecast and a DJH A2. The presentation is by Tony Wright and although not quite Holywood standard, he makes a good job of explaining his methods of producing these loco kits. In the past I have read numerous magazine articles on making loco kits and have also bought books on the same subject, but seeing the subject on the tele in my modelling room (well, spare bedroom) brought more of a hands on feel to it. You can be a novice to appreciate this, Tony is not what I would call a finescale modeller, but is top class when it comes to making loco kits that look good and work properly. The program running time is just under 2 hours and follows the way/methodology that Tony normally follows in producing OO loco kits.
To start with he describes the way each loco chassis is assembled, all have to be made slighty different. The DJH chassis has etched spacers with tabs to aid assembly, the SEF chassis has threaded tube as spacers and the Gibson has butt joints, but all are made as a rigid chassis.
My previous reading had taught me to solder up the wheel bearings after the chassis has been assembled, but not so here, they are soldered on before the chassis is assembled! I was somewhat surprised by this, but there cannot be anything wrong with this if you have ever seen his locos running on Stoke Summit, Biggleswade or more recently Charwelton. - however I would suggest that this only works on good quality kits, my previous efforts on a Crownline kit showed that the wheel centres did not line up with the coupling rod centres, indeed, one side of the etched chassis did not even line up with the other side, so beware. One thing that annoys me in some articles is where the author refers to something that they use in their toolbox that no longer exists and does not offer a current day alternative. Tony uses an old Jameson jig, but you can no longer get them? So what alternate do you use???
Upon completion of the chassis, the wheels are added, Markits for the A2 and 61XX, Alan Gibson wheels for the 4F, the former are simplicity itself with the self quartering of the wheels, the Gibson wheels however have to be quartered by eye and I was not totally convinced by the way Tony dealt with this, generally a Gibson wheeled 0-6-0 chassis should be made as a 2-4-0 to start with so as to clear up any problems with the quartering of the four driving wheels before proceeding to an 0-6-0. In line with current modern day thinking, all three kits are driven through double reduction gearboxes, ready assembled DJH (Grandspot) in all cases with a Mashima motor. I picked up that the A2 used a Mashima 1628, but not why? Nor what motors had been selected for the other two kits and why? These ready made gearboxes are great, but it would have been good to see a flat pack gearbox such as the Branchlines Multibox or one of the recent Markits gearboxes made up to show how it should be done and how to iron out potential pitfalls.
Pick-ups, one of my pitfalls I must admit, how much tension do you apply to the back of the wheels??? But Tony makes it looks oh so easy, he uses 26swg (0.45mm) nickel silver wire, consistently does. Looks like good advise since I have subsequently completely replaced the pu's on one of my models by Tony's method and am more than pleased with this.
Only from experience and having a go will you gain the confidence to complete a well running brass/whitemetal kit, I am quite happy making a brass chassis, but not so with whitemetal. Viewing how Tony gets on with the A2 whitemetal body is fascinating and well worth buying the programme just for that, having said that I'll still have to practice how you fill gaps with solder. Similar treatment is made to the SEF prairie, while a start is made on the brass running plate for the Gibson 4F. I'm now convinced that one of these fangled soldering iron temperature control units is the way to go, but how Tony gets away with using higher temperatures on whitemetal is beyond me, I'll have to stick with my light dimmer switch unit for the time being until I can afford one. Keep things clean, use plenty of flux, but Tony implies that he only uses one soldering iron and changes the bit if he is soldering brass or whitemetal, different solders you see. Poor lad, I think that we should have a whip around so that he can buy another iron. Tony's skills at acting looks to be improving, however I am convinced that he must be a raving lunatic since he uses his fingers, or was that blisters, to hold the brass in place while applying a hot iron millimeters away, mind you there are plenty of warnings during the program telling you not to do this, I can just smell it now. Ugh. After, and rightly, telling us off in the Journal for spelling mistakes, I must take him as an ex teacher to task for his pronunciation of the loco kits as being made of "cast" whitemetal, when everyone knows that it should be "carst". Think about it!
Part 2 of this programme, which should be available by the time you read this, will deal with the completion of all three models. Future Hollywood classics in the pipeline will deal with layout construction, track, electrics, scenery, stock, wiring, painting etc. not just 4mm though!
Verdict, overall I would say that there is a lot of good advise in this programme and would be a good investment for all OO modellers seeking to learn or improve their kit making skills. As I have already said, to view the programme on the television in your modelling room gives it a different dimension. Negatives, not many, the Jameson jig? I have jigs made by Comet and Perseverence which work ok. Unless I missed it, motors that mount themselves? I didn't see how the motor/gearbox was connected back to the chassis to prevent rotation. Perhaps for the future, something on the merits of compensating chassis would be useful, but TW does not advocate them for OO. Disappointed that one of the kits was not completed in one programme. Problem here would be that the A2 Pacific along would take close on 30 hours to complete, 3 locos into 2 hours does not quite make sense.
Charlie Bloomfield
Internet railway Modelling magazine.
'If you would like to build a locomotive kit and are scared of making a mess of it, get a copy of this Video/DVD and see just how easy it can be if you do it the right way.
On the first of three videos, Tony Wright, of British Railway Modelling Magazine, takes you through the first stages of building three locomotives from kits of different makes. The recording is two hours long and the presentation is excellent. Tony takes you at a slow place so that you can absorb every snippet of information and see clearly how he performs each stage'.
Strongly recommended.
Pat Hammond
I have just got my copy of the above DVD, and as a lone worker, for I'm not really a club type person, I am really impressed. I have hoped for many years this was something that would be done one day, and in my humble opinion your efforts cannot be surpassed.
The quality of the DVD is excellent, the photography is really great, and the Masterclass runs at a nice leisurely place, so you can take it all in without constantly replaying it.
At 120 minutes running time good value price wise as well!
Tony Wright although extremely competent in his craft is equally a great presenter for he explains what he does in such a way, that he really gives the impression that anyone can do it, and covers every aspect.
My humble efforts have been in O gauge, but everything he describes translates up from 4mm, so I can't wait for part 2, especially if it shows walshaerts valve gear being fitted. now that would solve a mystery!
I can think of only one thing better, and that would be the utopia of having Tony Wright's DVD instructions in an O gauge kit with pictures of the prototype in action for research. It would be almost like commissioning a model.Greedy or what?
Seriously great idea your DVD, hope it pays off.
Bert Hinchliffe |
